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Fall 2007 Rtw

  1. 21 questions
    Yes, That’s Catherine Malandrino in the Aston Martin Convertible Name: Catherine Malandrino Age: No comment Job: Designer. Her fall collection debuts today at the Chelsea Art Museum. Neighborhood: Riverside Drive Who’s your favorite New Yorker, living or dead, real or fictional? Andy Warhol. What’s the best meal you’ve eaten in New York? Steak from Peter Luger. In one sentence, what do you actually do all day in your job? Designing, drafting, fitting, cutting, draping, looking.
  2. new york fugging city
    Hot and Bothered at Narciso Rodriguez We could never forget our sheer shock and awe last season when Narciso Rodriguez showed a series of men’s blazers with the armpits cut out for maximum ventilation. They looked like the result of an angry spouse’s scissor-riddled tantrum. This time around, though, we probably would’ve welcomed them with open arms, like an oasis in a vast and sweaty desert. Because it was hot in there. Mirage hot, unless there actually was a pyramid of Diet Coke cans waving at us from on top of Amber Valletta’s head. And it wasn’t just the sizzling star power, though there was some of that. The overwhelming heat — a miracle, given the size of the warehouse — left the crowd fluctuating between cranky and mildly delirious.
  3. three is a trend
    Wear Sexy Like a Glove Fall’s key looks may be ladylike, but the accessories are anything but. Designers are adding edge to the sweetest of frocks with leather and vinyl elbow-length gloves. The bondage look popped up at Jill Stuart in shiny black and United Bamboo in a metallic pewter worn with a cropped jacket. Carolina Herrera paired her gloves with a black dress. And the grandmaster of trends, Marc Jacobs, sent gloves out in red and gray, as well as solid black, yellow, green, and gray. Whips sold separately.
  4. reviews
    Fashion Report Card: Critics Love Jacobs, De la Renta, Herrera, DVF New York’s biggest shows have kicked off, and the reviews are pouring in. What did the critics think of Marc’s hats? Did Oscar go overboard with the astrakhan? Is Carolina’s edgy new direction too much? And what about all that fur?
  5. new york fugging city
    Celebrities Tabled at Betsey Johnson Once we saw the Reverend Al Sharpton at the Baby Phat show on Friday, we figured we’d hit our man-of-the-cloth quota. We thought many things in those balmy days, but never did we guess that Rev. Run of Run DMC would glide into our lives during today’s Betsey Johnson show. Joan of Arcadia star Amber Tamblyn seemed just as surprised and thrilled, sidling up to Rev. Run for a photo — a request he granted by wrapping his most-holy arm around her. Then, looking especially, well, reverend, in solemn black garb and that kicky hat, he settled into his seat at the end of the runway next to his brother, Russell Simmons, to great applause and cheers from the photographers’ pen. He proceeded to grin so enthusiastically at the models that one even giggled and did a few extra shimmies. Who can blame her?
  6. show & tell
    Paris and Kimora to Form Two-Woman Wrecking CrewCould anyone be more excited for tonight’s Heatherette show than Paris Hilton and Kimora Lee Simmons? Apparently not. We’re hearing the pair has demanded that the W Lounge — the area behind the Bryant Park tents where everyone goes to decompress — be completely cleared out for an hour before showtime, in order to allow them the space and privacy they need to change into their outfits. Will they be partying together at Roseland later? If so, we recommend you run for cover — and take pictures. And send them to us. Update: Britney Spears is confirmed for Heatherette. If only Lindsay Lohan wasn’t in rehab…
  7. video look book
    Video: Kate Schelter Is Working the Puritan LookKate Schelter is a fashion consultant who talked to New York’s Amy Larocca about the fun of dressing for fashion shows. Though she says she looks like “a kaleidoscope sometimes,” what Schelter really loves is Fashion Week energy: “You’re just tossed into one big bowl and you create this big fashion salad.” Watch the video.
  8. party lines
    Following the Leopard-Print Thongs to the Marc Jacobs PartyThe Marc Jacobs after-party apparently started well before the gargantuan crowd made its way to Eugene. During our half-hour mosey out of the Armory, Seth Meyers tugged on our elbow and pointed down. “What is a pair of underwear doing on the ground?” We never found out. But if you lost a leopard-print thong last night, you know where to look.
  9. show & tell
    Coco Rocha Is Cold, So Cold We’re freezing. And so are the models, who we’ve seen jumping up and down and rubbing their arms vigorously backstage. Jada Yuan caught up with one of our faves, Coco Rocha, at Max Azria. How are you? I’m so cold. Soooo cold.
  10. party lines
    John Legend Explains What a Straight Man Does at Fashion Week Why do straight men go to fashion shows? John Legend gave us the unsurprising, yet somehow appalling, answer backstage at yesterday’s Max Azria show. “Watching the models go by is cool,” he said. “You do your little ‘Would I do her?’ analysis. That’s the level of sophistication I have towards fashion. I’m not an expert. I just know what I think looks sexy.”
  11. the fab life
    Fabiola Beracasa Parties at Bungalow 8, Wears DVF to the DVF Show Socialite and CIRCA creative director Fabiola Beracasa will file regular reports on her Fashion Week experience. The Fab life is taxing, so we’re still catching up with her weekend. Coming soon: Monday. On Saturday, I was sent two bags full of Rock & Republic jeans (which I love) to wear to the show. I tried on about ten pairs until I finally decided on jean shorts and black tights. I went to the show with two of my close friends from London — Camilla Al-Fayed and Jamie Diner. The show started very late, and it was … well, let’s just say we had fun. 12:30 a.m. We all went to Bungalow 8 where we met up with basically all of New York! We hung out until 4 a.m., and then we all went home to get some much-needed sleep.
  12. three is a trend
    Girls of a FeatherFrom left: Sari Gueron, Marchesa, Thakoon.Getty Images and Imaxtree.com Feathers are lending a touch of exotic whimsy to the fall collections. Sari Gueron added edge to her sweeping black evening gown with tuffs of black feathers at the neck and hemline. Thakoon punched up his cocktail attire with a feathered knee-length skirt. Marchesa’s plumage — the most understated — was offered along the bust for a beautiful, swanlike effect. And while Rock & Republic’s Muppet dress did offer an entire skirt made of peacock fringe, it’s good to remember less is more.
  13. party lines
    The Mystery of the Egg at the Marc Jacobs PartyIt was just sitting there alone, abandoned, bizarrely out of place on a black drinks table in the middle of the club Eugene at the Marc Jacobs after-party. Kim Gordon, Michelle Rodriguez, hunky Dan Colen, and the designer himself, wan, shorn, and almost unrecognizable, twirled around it, obliviously. It was an egg. We touched it. Yes, definitely an egg.
  14. show & tell
    André Leon Talley Sees American Elegance This Fashion Week Jada Yuan caught André Leon Talley for a hot moment at Oscar de la Renta. These are his picks so far: “This show, I liked Jessica Stam with the white ermine bolero. Oh, and I loved so much with Carolina Herrera. Carolina’s beautiful opening black dress and the plaid skirts with a muscle shirt, like a sweater and a sleeveless thing. And those big black culottes pajamas with the blouse and a sweater over it. This season I’m seeing American elegance, evening elegance, fireside chic. Sweaters with your ball gown.”
  15. ask a retailer
    Roopal Patel of Bergdorf Goodman Likes Reyes, Sari Gueron, and DVF Throughout the week, buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, Bird, Intermix, and Jeffrey New York will tell us which runway looks they plan to snatch up for fall. These are the first picks from Roopal Patel, women’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. Reyes’s bold colors, Sari Gueron’s sheath dresses, and DVF’s patterns all appeal to her so far this week.
  16. show & tell
    Fashion Football Backstage at Phillip LimBackstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer told Jada Yuan that his fall 2007 collection was based on Little Edie Beal of Grey Gardens fame, with an international flair. “Multicultural beauty is the new modernity,” Lim said. Also, see which stars skipped the Super Bowl to cheer their favorite looks. Watch more videos from fall 2007 Fashion Week.
  17. three is a trend
    Tall Tales Designers are marching into fall with head and hair held high. Ponytails have been everywhere this season, but the real eye-catchers are the unapologetically bold ones. Grey Ant moved slightly crimped, frizzy ponytails to the side, provoking eighties flashbacks. At Sass & Bide, hair was put beneath berets and wrapped sky-high up in black ribbons. And Lydia Hearst’s infamously dyed red hair was softly curled and pinned atop her head at ThreeAsFour. Though these styles will keep the hair out of your face, they’re only meant for girls who want all the attention.
  18. show & tell
    A Volcano Resides Inside De la Renta Is Oscar de la Renta as debonair and collected as he looks? As late models rushed through the doors shouting, “Hair? Anyone?” he sat in a chair fielding questions before his Monday-afternoon show but admitted to Jada Yuan he was starting to feel the nerves. How do you feel? Always the volcano is inside. Do you have last-minute details to finish? It will be finished when the show starts. There are always adjustments till the last minute. We’re showing, I don’t know, 58, 59 pieces, but we had, like, 125. So the most difficult thing is always to edit.
  19. new york fugging city
    Michelle Rodriguez Furloughed for Marc Jacobs? The many alcohol-fueled antics and violated probations of actress Michelle Rodriguez have made it almost impossible for us to keep track of what, exactly, her current legal status is. And to be honest, she was so terrible on Lost that we kind of didn’t care. But Rodriguez may have given us all a clue as to her situation on Monday night at the Marc Jacobs show, when she showed up wearing what looked suspiciously like a police-issue anklet. Is she starting a spring trend of wearing leg jewelry that’s the size of a roll of duct tape and about as comfy-looking as a vise? If so, we are eager to see Lindsay Lohan sporting them all the way up her left calf, then tripping over her own lopsidedness as she attempts to leave an L.A. hotspot while flashing a peace sign. Rodriguez offset her, ahem, anklet, with a floaty, seasonally inappropriate strapless white confection. Michelle, has it been a while since you left home? It’s minus-eleventy outside, girl. Wiggle some stockings under that leg cuff, at the very least.
  20. harriet and amy
    Ten Things We Liked on Monday 1.The shoes, the shoes, the shoes. There are so many, and they are really just so good. Strappy silver sandals at Thakoon, flat leather boots at Oscar de la Renta. 2.The soft shade of periwinkle on a fluttery chiffon evening gown at Carolina Herrera. 3.Dramatic necklines at Oscar de la Renta.
  21. show & tell
    Don’t Blame the Naturally Skinny ModelsBackstage at Rock & Republic on Saturday, model May Andersen talked with New York’s Jada Yuan about anger management, annoying stewardesses, and, of course, skinny models. Thin models, says May, are getting lumped together with anorexic models — a completely different breed: “You’re always going to have girls that are starving themselves, and that’s not naturally skinny girls’ faults.” Of course not. Watch the video.
  22. new york fugging city
    Max Azria Designs Maternity Chic We finally found the celebrities. Or at least knew where some of them were for twenty minutes yesterday at BCBG Max Azria. While prowling the front row pre-show in an attempt to see which starlet would be feeling our wrath this evening, we noticed that Katharine McPhee was scheduled to appear. The American Idol runner-up didn’t make it, possibly because it was too stressful to make the trip from TRL — where she made an appearance this afternoon wearing casual jeans and some top that we don’t remember — to the tents, where, we assume, she’d have to wear something a bit higher-flying, possibly necessitating a change in the Town Car. That sounds like a lot of work.
  23. fashion album
    Leigh Lezark’s Fashion Favorites D.J., designer, and queen of the cool crowd, MisShape’s Leigh Lezark shared her favorite looks of the fall 2007 shows with New York. Sue Stemp’s black minidresses, Sass & Bide’s sequined tank dress, and cocktail dresses from Diane von Furstenberg are just some of her picks. See Leigh’s album. Start your own fashion album.
  24. three is a trend
    Loosen Up! The belted silhouette is finally getting a rest: Loose, short, shift dresses have been spotted in most of this season’s major collections. 3.1 Phillip Lim put Chanel Iman in a peach-toned dress with a ruffled collar. Erin Fetherston’s simple, straight gray version was accented with patterned, sheer scarves trailing alongside. Diane von Furstenberg added a bold splash of red to an otherwise relaxed, basic little black dress. So go ahead, eat dessert.
  25. 21 questions
    Nanette Lepore Has Ohio on Her Mind Name: Nanette Lepore Age: N/A Job: Fashion designer. Her fall 2007 collection debuted today. Neighborhood: West Village Who’s your favorite New Yorker, living or dead, real or fictional? Violet Savage, my daughter. What’s the best meal you’ve eaten in New York? Steak and fries at Rio Mar, which sadly no longer exists. In one sentence, what do you actually do all day in your job? Try to make a great outfit. Watch a slideshow of Nanette Lepore’s collection.
  26. video look book
    Meet the Costume Designer From ‘Zoolander’And now it’s time for some light relief. Here’s David Robinson: He was the costume designer on Zoolander — which, as he so eloquently puts it, “is to fashion as the world of spying and espionage is to Austin Powers” — not to mention Pollack and Donnie Brasco. He describes his style as “homeless Viking dandy,” and he was interviewed by Amy Larocca for the Video Look Book.
  27. new york fugging city
    Jill Stuart’s Venue Colder Than Outdoors In retrospect, maybe it wasn’t the best idea for the Jill Stuart team to hold a fashion show in the frigid marble entryway of the New York Public Library on the coldest day of the year. While those of us who actually showed up shivered through a succession of cute coats, swingy tunics, and the THIRD set of underpants worn as outer pants in the last three days (So is this a trend? Because … don’t. Just don’t), it seemed like most of the folks with seating assignments just decided to ditch, probably in favor of standing in front of their wall heaters and saying things like, “Wow, it’s cold out there.” At least 50 percent of the seating in our section was filled in by the hopefuls from standing room, and a good portion of the front-row seats were eventually filled by … Jill Stuart staffers. Now, we’re no experts when it comes to the economics of fashion, but that doesn’t seem like a very good omen.
  28. show & tell
    Vionnet’s New Designer Says Modern Women Want an Amazing Bust At Barneys this weekend, we met Sophia Kokosalaki, the 33-year-old Londoner who has taken on the daunting task of resurrecting the legendary French fashion house Vionnet, which invented the bias cut and was favored by Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Greta Garbo in the twenties. Vionnet shuttered its doors at the beginning of WWII in 1939, which means Kokosalaki’s collection is the first to emerge from the house in 68 years.
  29. show & tell
    The Rumor Mill: Fashion Blogs We LikeFashion bloggers are typing away, bringing us the latest rumors and info that makes the Internet worthwhile. Here are just a handful of our favorites. Fashionista is reporting up-to-the minute rumors on the Marc Jacobs show. Dita Von Teese is expected to open the show, and the models will be sporting pink, red, or blue hair. So punk rock!
  30. new york fugging city
    Baby Phat, Meet Carolina Herrera Evidently, ‘tis the season to soldier along with the unwashed masses. Evidently, ‘tis the season to soldier along with the unwashed masses. First Lulu Guinness slummed it waiting for seat assignments at Matthew Williamson Sunday night, and then this morning before the Carolina Herrera show, CNN’s Soledad O’Brien chatted merrily with a reporter about the size of runway models while she waited her turn at registration. Less patient was The Young and the Restless’ Victoria Rowell, who jumped the queue in order to gain entrance on her own recognizance; all that hurrying was for naught, though, as she then spent the entire run-up to the show standing aimlessly in the aisles waiting to see if she could snag an unclaimed spot. Soledad, meanwhile, was rewarded with a prime front-row view. It’s good to see karma in action.
  31. video look book
    No One’s Pregnant at Kirna Zabête This Fashion WeekAmy Larocca caught up with Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, the owners of downtown fashion palace Kirna Zabête, outside the Sari Gueron show yesterday (Beth is on the left). They broke down their outfits — Stella McCartney, Chloe, Jean Paul Gaultier, etc. — and explained why their tradition of exchanging one item of clothing is a little different this year.
  32. ask a retailer
    Sari Sloane of Intermix Likes DVF, Matthew Williamson, Yigal Azrouël Throughout the week, buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, Bird, Intermix, and Jeffrey New York will tell us which runway looks they plan to snatch up for fall. These are the first picks from Sari Sloane, VP of fashion merchandising at Intermix. She’s enjoying fall’s dark colors, and her favorites include Yigal Azrouel, Erin Fetherston, Diane von Furstenberg, and more.
  33. party lines
    Lady Sovereign Slays the Sex PistolsNew York’s cameras were up front at the Rock & Republic after-party on Saturday night to capture British rapper Lady Sovereign’s take on the Sex Pistols “Pretty Vacant.” Our hearts belong to Johnny Rotten, but Lady S. adds some Fashion Week irony the original never even saw coming. Watch more Fall 2007 Fashion Week videos.
  34. three is a trend
    Au Naturel on the Runways Fall’s faces are blank. Don’t expect dark eyes or deep lips — the biggest shows so far went for natural looks. Lacoste and Yeohlee showed bare eyes, while Erin Fetherston’s girls sported softly flushed cheeks. A few shows offered slight splashes of color like the rose-hued lips at Abaete and Twinkle’s lightly violet eyes. Combine this with the perfect pallor, and you’ll be right at home with your favorite MisShape.
  35. show & tell
    The Late Late Show: Why Marc Jacobs Is Never on Time Marc Jacobs famously makes the fashion world wait for his New York shows to start. And he gets away with it every time because, well, he’s Marc Jacobs. But what causes the delays? Season: Spring 2007. Delay: Almost 70 minutes. Cause: The clothes didn’t arrive until fifteen minutes after the 8 p.m. start time. Highlights: This was Posh Spice’s first show.
  36. three is a trend
    Waistbands Shoot for the Sky After years of creeping steadily south, the waistband has shot up so high that even your mother’s jeans will be chic this fall. High-waisted pants and denim hit the runways in droves at Bruce, Grey Ant, Erin Fetherston, and Karen Walker. Grey Ant’s wide-legged pair dipped seductively in the back, with just the suggestion of butt cleavage. Fetherston cinched at the waist, with pleating that won’t be flattering for all. Bruce’s deep blue-denim hugged the hips and tummy, making them even less figure-friendly than your skinniest jeans.
  37. the fab life
    Backstage at BCBG, Dinner at Craftsteak Socialite and CIRCA creative director Fabiola Beracasa will file regular reports on her experience of the front rows, backstages, showrooms, and Champagne lounges of Fashion Week. Here is her diary from Friday, February 2. 9:30 a.m. I arrived in my office. 10 a.m. I met with an editor from a Japanese magazine called Glamorous. She wanted to shoot me during Fashion Week, so we agreed to have the camera crew come to a fitting at J. Mendel on Tuesday and also to shoot me at home on Thursday morning.
  38. new york fugging city
    Celebrities Skipped Matthew Williamson, and They Were Right Last season, Matthew Williamson’s show was chockablock with celebrities (Mischa Barton, Victoria “Posh Spice” Beckham, and Giada de Laurentiis, to name a few). Tragically, this time around, the only repeat attendee that we could spot was Rachel Zoe, ostensibly there to see what loud, shapeless sheaths she could force on Mischa Barton this year.
  39. harriet and amy
    Ten Things We Liked This Weekend 1. The eyeglasses at Yigal Azrouel. Nothing like a foxy nerd. 2. Coats at Phillip Lim: There’s a perfect little leather jacket, as well as a super-cool three-buttoned, man-tailored coat. 3. Everyone’s ingenuity when it comes to keeping warm — such masterful takes on layering!
  40. new york fugging city
    Alicia Keys Is Bored With Tracy Reese, Life Generally, being at a fashion show is like watching a really good tennis rally: You’re moving your head back and forth, drinking in the front, side, and back view of an outfit before turning back to see what’s coming next. Unless you’re Alicia Keys, in which case you never move your stare from the top of the runway.
  41. fashion album
    Tim Gunn’s Fall 2007 Fashion Week Favorites In between tying up loose ends at Parsons, prepping for his new job as CEO of Liz Claiborne, and checking out the shows, Tim Gunn took time to pick his favorite menswear looks. He found John Bartlett’s collection perfect for “the prepster hipster” and thought Perry Ellis paraded some of the best knitwear on the runway, along with “seductive and compelling” outwear. What else did Tim like? Check out his fashion album. Look at Tim’s album. Make your own fashion album
  42. ask a retailer
    Jennifer Mankins of Bird Has a Thing for High-Waisted Jeans Throughout the week, buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, Bird, Intermix, and Jeffrey New York will tell us which runway looks they plan to snatch up for fall. Jennifer Mankins, owner of Brooklyn boutique Bird, files her first picks — she’s favoring Grey Ant, Bruce, Karen Walker, and Sue Stemp so far.
  43. show & tell
    Jay McCarroll and Tim Gunn Still Have Beef Jay McCarroll is lying low this Fashion Week. His first collection, which debuted in the fall, will be released next month by Urban Outfitters. What’s next? Certainly not a reunion with Tim Gunn. We talked to McCarroll at the Gen Art fashion showcase, where he took the opportunity to get his feelings about the Project Runway host off his chest. Your spring 2007 show was great. Yeah. I thought it was good. No one fucking said anything.
  44. 21 questions
    Tracy Reese Wants Nature, Better Smells Name: Tracy Reese Age: A lady never tells! Job: Designer. Her Fall 2007 collection premiers today. Neighborhood: Murray Hill Who’s your favorite New Yorker, living or dead, real or fictional? Holly Golightly. What’s the best meal you’ve eaten in New York? Anything I’ve ever ordered at Indochine.
  45. show & tell
    Francisco Costa: Don’t Call Him ‘Metal Mouth’ If Calvin Klein’s normally boisterous Brazilian designer, Francisco Costa, looks a little dour this week, it’s not because he’s in a bad mood. He’s gone Ugly Betty on us. About six months ago, Costa got fitted for braces on his bottom teeth. “I grind too much in my sleep,” he told us. “I was chipping them.” No one could see the mouth hardware during the shows in the fall, but since then, he’s added a lovely set up top designed to blend in with his teeth. (We would have preferred a full-on metal mouth, with colored rubber bands to match his outfits.) “I can’t smile for six months!” he says, smiling. It looks rather cute. —Jada Yuan
  46. new york fugging city
    The Models Are Skinny, The Media Is Fat Considering that we’re living through a moment in which the entire fashion industry is taking a hit for whether its models are unhealthily skinny, we were very surprised to see that the organizers of Fashion Week have a very urgent message for us writer types: We’re fat.
  47. new york fugging city
    The Collection for Prostitutes We’ve All Been Waiting For If you had told us yesterday that in 24 hours we’d be privy to a fashion show that made Kimora Lee Simmons look like Michael Kors, we’d have patted you on the back, poured you a cup of coffee, and called you a cab, because clearly you needed to go sleep it off.
  48. new york fugging city
    Herchcovitch Goes Dumpster Diving After the last overcoat turned jumpsuit with crotch-and-bum cutouts left the Alexandre Herchcovitch runway, our strenuously maintained emotionless masks gave way to blinking, speechless incredulity. We couldn’t believe what we’d just seen. Woven sun hats? With veils? Shirts made of actual garbage bags? Had we accidentally taken the wrong exit from the subway and gone completely through the looking glass to a world where the crotch seam on pants extends to the knee and people wear blue-dipped sheaves of wheat on their lapels? Were we forever trapped in a Twilight Zone episode titled “Little Hefty Bag on the Prairie”?
  49. new york fugging city
    Alice Roi Clogs Up Fashion Week Spoiler alert for 24 fans: Chloe is going to take up clogging. Okay, not really. (Well, maybe: No one tells us anything. Still, it seems doubtful, unless Kiefer is enslaved by an Appalachian clogging team.) But we decided to start that rumor after the Alice Roi show, at which we were seated near actress Mary Lynn Rajskub, who plays 24’s nerd princess. Although she spruces up very nicely in real life — a pleasant departure from her sourpuss alter-ego — it seems Mary Lynn was inexplicably taken in by Roi’s choice of footwear: giant, shiny, patent-leather black or white clogs, worn with black knee socks.
  50. reviews
    Fashion Report Card: Paris Menswear The Paris menswear shows just ended and the reviews are in. What did the critics think of Galliano’s Mad Max warriors? What was Gaultier thinking with that hair? And does anyone even remember the Comme des Garçons collection?
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