Dior, Dior, Dior — and Some Other Stuff• John Galliano played “Mrs. Robinson” during the presentation of his pretty, wearable, sixties-inspired Christian Dior line. His other inspirations included Baby Jane Holzer and Raquel Welch. [WWD]
New From Milan: Pringle’s Baggy Sack, Emporio Armani’s Furry Man PurseGet your fashion while it’s hot — from the Milan runways, we mean. Please do indulge in today’s latest shows; they’re calorie-free, of course.
• Have you heard about the black lace at Prada? Everyone is raving, and with good reason.
first looks
The London Runways Come AliveFinally, the clothes on the London runways are getting a little crazy, a look which defines London Fashion Week and is part of what makes it so great. Some observations:
• The geometric shapes and bright colors, especially one bright-blue coat at Aquascutum, happily remind us of Willy Wonka’s factory.
• Betty Jackson also used bright colors but cleverly concealed buttons.
dress code
What the Critics Said About New York Fashion Week, and What They Really MeantYou know what it’s like when you’re at dinner with a bunch of people who work together and they start talking about that “report” or that “weird new girl” and you have no idea what they’re talking about? In fact, they may as well be speaking another language? Well, fashion critics are the same way. Their reviews come out in a special breed of flowery, pretentious prose that — though fun to read because only they could come up with it — makes very little sense to fashion outsiders.
So we’ve selected some of our favorite New York Fashion Week excerpts from our favorite critics and translated them into language we hope you understand.
run through
Get in Bed With Thom BrowneWere you cold sleeping last night? Are your pockets deep? If so, consider getting in bed with Thom Browne. The designer is looking for a financial partner, according to WWD. He’s not saving money on his fashion shows, nor would we want him to. After all, as Amy Larocca put it, “they are the only shows we’ve ever been to in which the audience frequently laughs out loud.” Browne’s spring/summer ‘08 show featured lifeguards and palm trees, and his fall ‘08 line, as Cathy Horyn wrote, “offered the long-awaited thrill of seeing two men share the same trouser leg.” WWD takes care to note that Browne isn’t acting out of financial desperation (Browne also designs the Black Fleece capsule collection of men’s and women’s clothes for Brooks Brothers, and his signature collection is sold at Bergdorf Goodman). Nevertheless, cold, wealthy folk looking for something original to put their money into could do a lot worse.
Thom Browne said ‘Open’ to Financial Partnership [WWD]
Michael Kors Designs for the Gossip GirlsMuch of the blondest hair in New York can be found in the front row at a Michael Kors fashion show. Kors, who is a master of the campy one-liner, is something of a court designer to those women who are so fortunate as to maintain a nutty brown complexion twelve months a year without ever visiting a tanning salon. He knows exactly how to show off those Palm Beach tans and blonde, blonde hair, making them shine and making them look their best.
party lines
John Varvatos Likes His Male Models TipsyWalking backstage at John Varvatos’s show at the top of 7 World Trade Center last night, we were a little taken aback to see some 30 high-cheekboned man-children throwing back Peronis and Champagne.
reviews
At Thom Browne, a Sharply Tailored Freak ShowThe relationship between what goes down the runway and what gets worn on the street varies greatly: Some designers stay well within in the realm of the wearable, while others use a fashion show to make a point. In his circus-themed show, Thom Browne was trying for the latter.
loose threads
Louboutin’s Bags, Crow’s Denim, and Duckie’s Elbows• Expect more handbags from Christian Louboutin’s brand expansion, which also includes up to ten new U.S. boutiques and “aggressive protection” of the brand’s trademarks, like those lovely red soles.
first looks
Just In: Douglas Hannant, Yigal AzrouëlWe’re in the process of uploading photos from today’s shows, but here’s the evening’s amuse-bouche:
Yigal Azrouël
Douglas Hannant
Perry Ellis
Nautica