Scrapbook: Moments From ParisIf after being passed over for a trip to Milan, you were also cruelly deprived of a week in the City of Light, here’s a quick look at what you missed among the pretty people:
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Sari Sloane of Intermix Likes Chloé and Stella
With the Paris shows finally coming to a close, we had our spies — er, buyers — from Intermix and Bird send dispatches on their picks of the week. Sari Sloane, Intermix’s VP of fashion merchandising, loved Chloé’s organza dresses and Stella McCartney’s chunky knits.
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Mariacarla Boscono Takes ParisThough Ali Michael’s on a plane to Texas, plenty of other lean-legged girls have been pounding Paris’s pavement.
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Model Eats, Obviously Sent Home From ParisHere’s a good one from Paris: It’s not as if the scant body mass indexes on runways are good things. But the absurdity marches on, and still some strong-headed young things refuse to accept the conventions of modeling’s narrow vision.
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Ungaro Is Hip Again; Mixed Reviews for Dries Van Noten• Just 23 years old, Esteban Cortazar brought the “It” factor back to the house of Emanuel Ungaro. [Times]
• Dries Van Noten disappoints Cathy Horyn, and Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo makes her “think the trashiness, the allure and counterpoint of trashiness, is very interesting at the moment.” [On the Runway/NYT]
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What the Critics Said About Paris Fashion Week, and What They Really MeantThe reviews from Paris Fashion Week are clogging the Internet with words that resemble English but don’t necessarily make a lot of sense. That means it’s time for another edition of “What They Really Meant,” where we read the fashion reviews so you don’t have to. You’ve worked hard enough today already.
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Colette Displays Luxury Logos Made From CocaineThere’s cocaine at Colette! Through March 1 — the end of Paris Fashion Week — the Paris boutique’s first-floor gallery will display Swiss artist Comenius Roethlisberger’s exhibition of luxury-brand logos like Chanel, Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent written in a mixture of cocaine and powdered sugar, adorably entitled “Dearest Constellation, Sweetest Invitation” (he’s talking to you, Kate).
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Viktor & Rolf Confuses Us in a Whole New Way!Viktor & Rolf, we need to talk. Guys, we know you’re wacky. A little quirky. And yo, we love that about you. That whole hanging-the-models-by-hooks thing last season? Freakin’ hilarious. Your old bed collection? Loved. But what was up with this whole “No” show you just did?
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Jean Paul Gaultier Blows PETA a Big KissWhat kind of fur did Jean Paul Gaultier send down the runway in Paris yesterday? The Wall Street Journal’s Christina Binkley was there, and she can explain:
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Masha Tyelna Is Today’s Top ModelIf models are musical instruments, in Paris Masha Tyelna is the cowbell — ‘cause designers just want more (zing!).
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Out of Nowhere, Amanda Laine Storms EuropeAfter winning the V magazine and Supreme Model Management’s “V a Model!” (get it??) contest, official new girl Amanda Laine has surprised everyone by quickly popping up on Milan runways. That’s right — it seems possible to win a modeling contest and actually have a high-fashion career thereafter! Who knew?
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New Valentino Designer Prepares for Debut; Balenciaga Wows Critics AgainTomorrow Alessandra Fachinetti presents her first collection as the creative director of Valentino after the man himself retired earlier this year, making her “potentially, one of the most powerful women in the industry.” She invited Valentino to her show and calls her collection “Valentino … with a twist,” which she hopes will attract younger customers. [Telegraph]
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The Latest From Paris: Dior, Yohji, Scott, and More• No color went untouched in John Galliano’s line for Christian Dior.
• The models at Undercover rocked an otherworldly, alien vibe, with future-forward fashions.
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Dior, Dior, Dior — and Some Other Stuff• John Galliano played “Mrs. Robinson” during the presentation of his pretty, wearable, sixties-inspired Christian Dior line. His other inspirations included Baby Jane Holzer and Raquel Welch. [WWD]
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Taryn Davidson Books Paris Runways, Italian ‘Vogue’Though she debuted at last year’s Calvin Klein show alongside Karlie Kloss and Toni Garrn, Canadian Taryn Davidson has remained more under the radar. One could attribute this merely to her being Canadian — our northern neighbors tend to lie low. But Taryn’s creating a stir in Paris: Usually catwalk bookings are confirmed the day of, but Davidson’s already snagged spots this week at Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga. And she’s also blowing up off the runway, having shot an upcoming Italian Vogue editorial with Nathaniel Goldberg. Not too shabby, eh?
cult of personality
Cavalli’s Cell Phone Is Like a Cinder BlockEarlier we mentioned how designers can’t use everyday technology like computers and cell phones. And now we’ve some choice visual proof — fresh from Milan, no less! — of designers’ frightening inability to modernize. Pictured, Roberto Cavalli’s ginormous cell phone seen resting on a table at the designer’s after-party. Well. If Zack Morris could get ahold of Cavalli, we’re sure he’d ask for his phone back.
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Girl to Watch: Emma PeiSome of our favorite new catwalk staples are Asian beauties, and upbeat newcomer Emma Pei is our fave du jour. So let’s welcome her to the esteemed club of runway rulers that is our Model Manual, shall we?
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Oscar Fashion Bores — Now on to Paris!• The inane glories of the red carpet: Atonement’s 13-year-old Saoirse Ronan doesn’t care what people think about her outfit, George Clooney’s date seemed restless, and Steve Carell claimed to wear $14,000 Spanx. [WP]
• Most Oscar dresses were boring and many red-carpet walkers’ “behavior could have used a little refinement,” like Jessica Alba who chewed gum the whole walk down. [WWD]
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Daria Werbowy Returns to Claim Milan As Her OwnWe have a bit to say about Milan’s catwalk conclusion, particularly the puzzling casting at DSquared2. So: The brothers Caten slapped red lipstick and fishnets on their opener Iekeliene.
cult of personality
Scrapbook: Moments From MilanIf you haven’t been flown over to soak in the twinkling excesses of Milan Fashion Week, here’s what you’ve missed. Clockwise from top left: An exhausted Anouck yawned in line at Prada. Carine looked fab in front-row fur at Missoni. Hamish Bowles waited at Jil Sander with a camera-shy Virginia Smith.
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Milan Front-Row Report: McDreamy Who? It’s Roberto Bolle!Until the end of the week, the front rows of the Milan shows were a lovely reminder celebrities exist in nationalities other than American. Just because we don’t know who they are and Us Weekly doesn’t explain why they’re “just like us” doesn’t mean they’re not famous
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First Thoughts on Donatella: Goodness, We Approve!em>Wherein batty, catty New York editors treat you to their totally unsolicited yet utterly insightful thoughts on the stuff they can’t stop looking at.Amina I don’t want to scare you but…Versace is pretty.
Jessica Uh oh. How pretty?
Amina I want to buy some of the coats.
Jessica Ooooh boy. Okay, looking now… leather biker-cum-blazer is something I might kick some serious ass in.
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Milan Still Low on Glitz, But Earthy Gets Its DueThe Milan shows are almost over and we are still waiting for that “molto sexy” glitzy thing to rear its Swarovski-ed head. Soon, oh yes, we can feel it. But in the meantime, many of these collections, would be great for a super posh camping trip of sorts.
• Trussardi showed earth tones and bright shower-curtain frocks.
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Americans Are Over Bling, But China and Russia Aren’t!Are you the kind of person who hears the words “economy” or “emerging markets” and immediately thinks, Economy eshmonomy, emerging markets cookie whatever? If so, and you care about fashion, now is the time to change your tune. The economy does indeed affect what you wear (crap), because designers create their wares based on what you’re in a position to buy.
What the Critics Said About Milan Fashion Week, and What They Really MeantC’est chic!Photo: imaxtreeHere’s what you probably understand about the Milan collections so far: Prada’s black lace was fabulous, Jil Sander showed some really fierce coats, and the Gucci collection was “bohemian.” Now, we’d say the Gucci line was more caveman chic than anything else, but we suppose that’s why we don’t write fashion reviews for the big papers. But sometimes isn’t “caveman chic” just the simple, fun way to sum up some high-minded reviewer’s purple prose?
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Checking Out the New Girl: Anna GushinaRussian girls are hardly strangers to the catwalk. But after opening Proenza Schouler, Anna Gushina’s become quite the runway fixture
cult of personality
Are Anna Wintour and Europe Slowly Going to War?You know what? We’re just going to go ahead and say it: Clearly some Europeans are hinting at war with Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Yesterday we learned Giorgio Armani said he was “indifferent” to her Bobness while he was standing onstage right next to her during a press conference for the Costume Institute Gala’s “Superheroes” exhibit.
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Gucci Is More Menkes Than Horyn; Scientists Save Your Tights!• Cathy Horyn thinks diversity on the runway is really important, especially since emerging markets like Russia, China, and Brazil are quickly becoming significant consumers of designer clothes. Horyn also writes of the Gucci collection, “It’s clear we can’t expect world-creating fashion from Frida Giannini.” Ouch. [NYT]
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Natalia Chabanenko Is Milan’s Next Big ThingMiuccia made our job easy today, since the Prada’s casting is the one to watch. And as the designer frequently does, she broke a star: Natalia Chabanenko, a pouty brunette who bookended the lineup and clenched today’s win.
cult of personality
Armani Talks Smack About Wintour in Her Presence!What, exactly, is Giorgio Armani’s problem this week? First he bans Cathy Horyn from his show in Milan, and then, this morning, he let his mouth run astray about Anna Wintour.
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New From Milan: Pringle’s Baggy Sack, Emporio Armani’s Furry Man PurseGet your fashion while it’s hot — from the Milan runways, we mean. Please do indulge in today’s latest shows; they’re calorie-free, of course.
• Have you heard about the black lace at Prada? Everyone is raving, and with good reason.
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The Cheat Sheet: Tell Your Models Apart!Models are supposed to blend into the background and let the clothes grab the attention. But after yesterday’s mini-kerfuffle, in which it was discovered that some glazed-over soul at Style.com had confused photos of Chanel Iman for those of Jourdan Dunn, we were reminded that perhaps mannequins do the job a little too well and fashion insiders can’t tell the girls apart. For shame!
cult of personality
Anna Wintour Continues to Wear This One Prada DressThis morning in Milan, the Met’s Costume Institute held a press conference on its upcoming … oh, whatever, doesn’t matter, it’s something about superheroes. What matters is that Her Vogueness Anna Wintour attended, wearing the bright little Prada number pictured above. Cute, but is that not the exact same Prada dress she wore twice in weeks past at Armani Privé and Peter Som? Why, yes, yes, it is. If it works for Anna, then we suppose Anna can work it all she wants.
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Roberto Cavalli, Imminent Reality-TV Star, Be Clubbin’Roberto Cavalli is on the fast track to becoming fashion’s Hugh Hefner: He’s often embedded in a throng of hot ladies, and WWD reports today that not only is he opening nightclubs around the world, but Cavalli also has a television show in the works.
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Daria Strokous Is Today’s Top Model in MilanMilan is off to a lithe, pretty-faced start! Edita Vilkeviciute, who appears in the spring campaigns for D&G and Pringle of Scotland, pulled off surprise opener and closer at Burberry, more or less ousting the label’s reigning queen, Agyness Deyn, from the glory roles.
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Prada’s Black Lace Sends Critics A-Swoonin’!• Cathy Horyn is in love again! She finds the black lace on Prada’s coats, pants, and dresses “fascinating” in Milan. [NYT]
• Suzy Menkes likes Prada’s black lace too, calling it “original” and “intensely Prada in its mix of the prim and the perverse.” [IHT]