Young Hollywood Copies Anna WintourIf you hang on to something long enough — boots, a bag, a hairstyle — it’s bound to come back into fashion some decade or another. Such seems to be the case with Anna Wintour’s signature bob, which she’s been rocking since she was 14.
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Sari Sloane of Intermix Likes Chloé, Lanvin, and StellaWith the spring 2008 shows under way in Paris, we checked in with Sari Sloane, VP of fashion merchandising at Intermix, to get her picks from the latest crop of looks. What’s she buying for spring? Stella’s florals and shoes, Chloé’s graphic prints, and all of Lanvin.
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Video: Harriet and Amy’s Trend ReportIt’s become a Fashion Week tradition here at NYMag.com: Each season, New York Magazine fashion director Harriet Mays Powell and fashion reporter Amy Larocca talk about the trends they’ve seen over the last few days.
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Ten Things We Loved This WeekAnd so it comes to an end, with editors collapsing with relief and models eating with glee. But what really stood out? Our own Harriet and Amy proudly (and exhaustedly, no doubt) present their picks.
1. Proenza Schouler’s polish was a thrilling finish to the day: everything short, stylish, and belted. Particular favorite: exit No. 2.
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Belly Dance
Think shoulders are the only skin you’ll be showing next season? Think again.
three is a trend
Sheena Was a Punk-Rocker
Neon was the buzzword this week, landing on nearly every runway. But a few crafty designers reinterpreted that late-eighties trend into something distinctively more punk.
Critics Bow at the Altar of Marc, Oscar, Anna, and CarolinaAs Fashion Week draws to a close, it’s time to talk about the big guns, those wonders who need no surname. Did Marc’s intellectual show ultimately please? Did Oscar and Carolina meet expectations? And what does Anna Sui have up her sleeve?
Marc Anthony Is Undead; Harvey Weinstein Is Unknown
The big questions on our lips before Jennifer Lopez’s JustSweet show: Would any big names make it across town after Zac Posen? Would Posh Spice come out to support the good friend of her pal Tom Cruise? And, most important, would Marc Anthony look as undead in person?
Five Things We Liked on Tuesday
1. The new, tailored, polished Marc by Marc Jacobs — specifically a short, strapless navy-blue dress.
2. Bruce was completely refined and chic. We loved the evening looks of black trousers and exquisitely detailed and beaded camisole tops.
Slow Down, Strike a PoseFashion Week will always be hectic. But some designers gave editors a break from having to frantically crane their necks just to catch a model soaring down the runway. They offered up static presentations where you could — gasp! — actually see the clothes.
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Scarf It UpHair this week has swung the arc from long and flowy to super-tight ponytails. But next spring, break out your best Pucci scarves and rock them as headbands.
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Julianne Moore Goes Fugging Blonde at CalvinWe were loitering outside Calvin Klein, doing our usual “are we in the right line?” dance along with everyone else, when things got a little exciting. Anna Wintour stopped and looked right at us. And gestured!
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Donna Martin Graduates, Goes to Betsey JohnsonConsidering we’re such die-hard Beverly Hills, 90210 lovers, it was almost too perfect that the marquee guest at Betsey Johnson’s prom-themed fashion show was none other than Tori Spelling herself, (in)famous for the time her alter-ego Donna Martin almost didn’t graduate because she got drunk on champers at prom.
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Marc(ia), Marc(ia), Marc(ia)!Pity the designers who had to show today, hopelessly stuck in the shadow of Marc Jacobs. Monique who?, you say? So you’re hungry for more Marc coverage, right? We thought you were!
LeAnn Rimes Magically Appears at LhuillierWe finally escaped from the endless tyranny of Demi Moore and Sophia Bush and enjoyed some fresh faces at the Monique Lhuillier show: singer LeAnn Rimes and starlet Michelle Trachtenberg, each of whom was wearing the designer’s clothing — and a lot of foundation for the benefit of the cameras. That said, it’s refreshing to see child stars who have not grown up to be tremendous skanks, and we are grateful to them for all of their panty-wearing, complexion-saving good behavior.
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Ann Watson of Henri Bendel Likes Nili Lotan, Anna Sui, and Peter SomThroughout the week, the buyers from Kirna Zabête, Henri Bendel, Intermix, and more will tell us which runway looks they plan on stocking. Today, Henri Bendel VP, fashion director Ann Watson reveals her current faves: sexy sophistication from Nili Lotan, menswear cuts from Anna Sui, and Peter Som’s reworked American classics.
reviews
Critics Love Kors and Lam, Not So Sure on Lim
We’re on Fashion Week’s last lap, and the reviews are still rolling in: Michael Kors’s latest collection receives major kudos and Derek Lam reminds us why he’s the industry darling. But why did Phillip Lim draw such a mixed reaction? And could DVF do better?
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5 Things We Liked on Monday1.Oscar de la Renta knows his customer. Today’s show was local (held on the Upper East Side) and age appropriate. Loved the cream, sleeveless top with a navy pencil skirt and feathered hat. Very Chic.
2.The punk rock hair at Anna Sui was a hit, as was a purple cardigan worn over pewter ruffled shorts that looked like a skirt.
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Marc Jacobs Will Show Whenever He Damn Well PleasesThe Marc Jacobs show was scheduled for nine o’clock, which most of the invitees took to mean that around nine, you might want to think about finishing dinner and heading over to Lex. But instead, at nine o’clock, KCD publicists started working the phones: The show would be even later than usual, don’t bother turning up before 10:30. It would start at eleven was the promise, which wound up meaning that lots of people turned up drunk.
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Lisa Marie Allows Her Daughter to Be Seen With Ryan CabreraWhen a sullen, put-upon-seeming woman in a dress vaguely resembling that of a pirate wench skulked into the Anna Sui show, the guy next to us snarked, “Who is that person trying so hard to look miserable?” We shrugged and replied, “Oh, it’s probably Amy Lee, that sounds like something she’d do.” Turns out we named that tune. Fortunately, the Evanescence singer magically summoned the strength to smile when the cameras spied her, and the healing glow of flashbulbs rejuvenated ye ol’ wench. It was like a Prozac explosion.
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Purple ReignSpring’s colors have rocked the palette, from neons to jewel-hued. But one that’s a bit more wearable is the purple quietly making its way down runways.
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Frédéric Fekkai Teaches Secrets of Painfully Tight PonytailsBeauty editor Aja Mangum managed to steal a few minutes of hair guru Frédéric Fekkai’s time at the Diane Von Furstenberg show. The mane maestro is all about effortless chic this spring, apparently, with a focus on shiny, healthy hair. Bobs, chignons, and painfully tight ponytails are all in your near future, ladies, so pay attention as Fekkai explains how to achieve his looks.
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Fugging Federer Steals the De la Renta ShowAnyone claiming to be unmoved by the Oscar de la Renta show is a liar. No matter what your take on his clothing is, the setting — at the Third Church of Christ Science on Park Avenue — was frankly kind of spectacular. Add to that an exuberant live performance from the Polyphonic Spree (who surely could never have predicted playing for a roomful of uniformly blonde Upper East Side matrons) and a spontaneous standing ovation for U.S. Open champ and the future Mr. Wintour, Roger Federer, and you’ve got yourself a hell of a morning.
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Bird’s Jennifer Mankins Likes Behnaz, Lim, and Bamboo
All week we’ve got buyers from Bird, Bendel, Intermix, and more to give us the scoop on what spring looks they’re snagging. In this installment, Bird owner Jennifer Mankins is falling for Behnaz Sarafpour’s earthy embroidery, pleated tunics from United Bamboo, and high-waisted styles from H Fredriksson.
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Intermix’s Sari Sloane Likes Proenza, Kors, and DVF
Throughout the week, buyers from Kirna Zabête, Henri Bendel, Intermix, and more will be filling us in on which runway looks they plan to snag for spring. Today, Sari Sloane, VP of fashion merchandising at Intermix, loved Proenza’s tailoring, Michael Kors’s colors, and the flowing dresses at DVF.
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Video Memo to Derek Lam: Give Cathy a Signature Silhouette!There was no shortage of commentary backstage at the Derek Lam show: Fabiola Beracasa and Lam discuss the art of balancing his eponymous line with his work for Tod’s, Amanda Ross declares Lam’s “classic” designs to be among her favorites, and Bergdorf buyers have bought Lam’s lines in full force. But as well designed and accessible as Lam’s work may be, ever-honest Times critic Cathy Horyn is still searching for something more.
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Idol Worship at DVFDiane Von Furstenberg’s role in life is “to make women feel confident,” and it’s this sort of philosophy that makes the popular designer Fabiola Beracasa’s idol. Backstage at the DVF show, Fab chats up the lady of the hour as well as Plum Sykes and Diane’s hubby, megamogul Barry Diller — who reveals that his wife steers clear of working on his wardrobe. Watch and see why.
reviews
Fashion Report Card: Loving Ralph, But Not Necessarily RodarteFashion Week hardly slowed down for the weekend, and the critics were indefatigable as usual. Ralph Lauren’s 40th-anniversary show received universal praise, but the critics got a little crankier at Y-3, and Rodarte inspired another round of the Great Wearability Debate.
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Head of Fashion Week Lays the Smack DownSo we were in the middle of talking to Fern Mallis, head of Fashion Week, about her favorite shows so far and trends for spring when a woman who has apparently been the scourge of Mallis’s week sat down in an empty front row seat nearby.
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Nicky Hilton’s Muse Is Her Jewelry BoxComparatively quiet socialite Nicky Hilton debuted her Nicholai line last night, and New York was there to catch the magic both on the runway and behind the scenes. Nicky’s big sis Paris wasn’t present (was getting mocked by Sarah Silverman at the VMAs really that preferable?), but her proud parents were right by her side — mom Kathy was quite literally “speechless” at her daughter’s accomplishment. As for the collection itself, Nicky drew her inspiration from bling. See for yourself how it all played out.
three is a trend
Neon SignsAre runways taking cues from the nu-rave trend in music? Or Agyness Deyn’s June British Vogue cover?
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Video: Fabiola Beracasa Explores Michael Kors’s A.D.D. BackstageBehind the scenes at the Michael Kors show, Fabiola Beracasa encountered underwear, models, Robert Verdi, some adorable children, show producer Alexandre de Betak and, of course, Michael Kors himself.
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Five Things We Liked on Sunday
1. At Michael Kors, we flipped for the pointillist Seurat-print caftan on Angela Lindvall.
2. The light-gray, leopard-esque dot print on blouses, dresses, and even a scarf at Derek Lam. We’ll take it. Also, the elegant satin robe over a sequined evening dress. Finally, a chance to call something “soigné.”
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Straw DollsThe soundtrack at the shows this week could easily have been Van Halen’s “Panama,” because straw hats were perched atop models’ heads everywhere.
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Five Things We Liked on Saturday
1. Ralph Lauren’s longevity. It’s his anniversary, and he showed in a setting — the Conservatory gardens — that salutes his swishy and elegant take on New York. As for a favorite dress, the white Spencer jacket over the white chiffon evening gown was stunning.
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Joy James Keeps It Simple in J. MendelThe latest Video Look Book from the tents introduces us to Joy James, a businesswoman who loves original fashion because, as we know, it “tells a lot about you.” So what can we tell about Joy from her J. Mendel frock and custom-made hat? Watch and see.
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Ann Watson of Henri Bendel Likes Vera, Chaiken, and Phi
Throughout the week, buyers from Kirna Zabête, Henri Bendel, Intermix, and more will be filling us in on which runway looks they plan to snag for spring. Today, Ann Watson, vice-president, fashion director for Henri Bendel has her eye on Vera’s pitch-perfect modernity, Chaiken’s tailored suits, and PHI’s mini skirts.
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Kirna Zabête Likes Thakoon, Proenza, and Fetherston
Throughout the week, the buyers from Kirna Zabête, Henri Bendel, Intermix, and more will tell us which runway looks they plan on stocking. Today, Sarah Easley, co-owner of Kirna Zabête, shares her picks from the recent collections. She loves Thakoon’s paillette dresses, all of Proenza, and Erin Fetherston’s palette.
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Backstage at Proenza, Find a Natural Look
New York’s beauty and market editor Aja Mangum sneaked backstage at one of the biggest shows this week Proenza Schouler to talk to Lancôme’s Gucci Westman. Brown was the new black for faces, she says, with a natural look prevailing. Want to know what else the Jack and Lazaro thought up? Watch the video.
Backstage at Proenza Schouler [Video]
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Skirting the Issue
Models’ hips may have a circumference smaller than our thighs, but their skirts don’t. This spring it’s all about full skirts the bigger, the better. Vera Wang’s purple-blue skirt is a fresh take on Dior’s new look. Behnaz Sarafpour’s belted dresses add just enough volume to be sexy not hippy. Thakoon’s bright-pink skirt ballooned down the runway, making this spring a rare gift to big bottoms.
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Raquel Zimmermann Is Friday’s Top Model
It’s day three of the model walk-off and things are getting heated. Missy Rayder gets an honorable mention for one helluva comeback, popping up in the amazing Proenza show. Let’s hear it for the Americans! But top honors go to Brazilian stunner Raquel Zimmerman, whose first opening show this season was also at Proenza. Jack and Lazaro know how to pick them. We can’t argue with that.
reviews
Fashion Report Card: Alexander Wang Divides, Preen Impresses in Debut
Could Alexander Wang live up to heightening hype? Some critics were cold and unimpressed. But Preen was welcomed in America with all but a parade down Fifth Avenue. Lela Rose’s Katherine and Audrey Hepburn theme proved puzzling, and rag & bone veered too far from what they do best. Who else got slammed?
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Jeremy Piven Falls Over Petra Nemcova at Prada
Of all the Fashion Week parties, the Prada-store event will always be good. They couldn’t possibly top their last big Fashion Week bash with the Raconteurs, but we figured they might come close. And they did, sort of. We’d been looking forward to hearing Damien Hirst’s formerly crack-addicted “maverick fucking geezer” friend Antony Green and his band the Hours play beneath a mockup of Hirst’s $100 million skull. But pretty much from the second they started, we started to doze off. There were soundboard issues, and the music did not rock. Instead, we counted the celebs who had been able to squeeze their tiny bodies onto the steps opposite the stage (which is right in front of that big curvy thing in the middle of the store). Quite a few, it turned out.
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Video: Backstage, Everyone’s Rooting for Thakoon
With our cameras in tow, fashion correspondent Fabiola Beracasa hit the Thakoon show and found several of the designer’s fans. Filmmaker Liz Goldwyn told of one Thakoon dress she has taken around the world. Mary Alice Stephenson, former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, gleefully recalled being Thakoon’s boss before the fashion assistant grew up to be a designer. Find out who else was there by watching the video.
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Proenza Schouler Show More Fun Than Your GYN AppointmentProenza Schouler moved uptown to the magnificent Park Avenue Armory this year, and their fans came with them. We spotted the usual cadre of interchangeable blonde fashion editors, a sprinkling of socialites (including Aerin Lauder and avowed Proenza lover Jessica Joffe, who was wearing the same outfit she had on at the 11 a.m. Sari Gueron show scandale!), and, of course, Anna Wintour, this time with daughter Bee Shaffer in tow.