Ungaro Is Hip Again; Mixed Reviews for Dries Van Noten• Just 23 years old, Esteban Cortazar brought the “It” factor back to the house of Emanuel Ungaro. [Times]
• Dries Van Noten disappoints Cathy Horyn, and Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo makes her “think the trashiness, the allure and counterpoint of trashiness, is very interesting at the moment.” [On the Runway/NYT]
What the Critics Said About Paris Fashion Week, and What They Really MeantThe reviews from Paris Fashion Week are clogging the Internet with words that resemble English but don’t necessarily make a lot of sense. That means it’s time for another edition of “What They Really Meant,” where we read the fashion reviews so you don’t have to. You’ve worked hard enough today already.
Gucci Is More Menkes Than Horyn; Scientists Save Your Tights!• Cathy Horyn thinks diversity on the runway is really important, especially since emerging markets like Russia, China, and Brazil are quickly becoming significant consumers of designer clothes. Horyn also writes of the Gucci collection, “It’s clear we can’t expect world-creating fashion from Frida Giannini.” Ouch. [NYT]
Prada’s Black Lace Sends Critics A-Swoonin’!• Cathy Horyn is in love again! She finds the black lace on Prada’s coats, pants, and dresses “fascinating” in Milan. [NYT]
• Suzy Menkes likes Prada’s black lace too, calling it “original” and “intensely Prada in its mix of the prim and the perverse.” [IHT]
Fashion Week Show-Hopping Wears on Anna and SuzyFor all of Fashion Week’s pretty clothes, we’re exhausted, and our under-eye circles are kinda ugly. But at least we’re not the only ones feeling a bit worn out. “You’re running all over town, and nobody’s thinking through how much time you spend in a taxi or car,” said Vogue queen bee Anna Wintour at Thursday’s 3.1 phillip lim show.